How To Properly Check and Fill Tires

While it may seem like a mundane task, inflating tires is much more crucial to your car than you may think, and it results in a safer and more economical experience on the road. Your vehicle's handling also will be greatly improved as the larger a tire's inflated footprint, the more responsive and comfier the ride balance will be.

Because it's National Tire Safety Week, it's the perfect time to check your car's tires.

Before starting

To find your tires' proper inflation level, look for a sticker on the driver-side doorjamb. It displays the vehicle weight restriction and tire information. The info is also found in the maintenance or car-care section of your vehicle’s owner's manual.

Don't refer to the sidewall markings on your tires, which in part specify the maximum tire pressure — not the recommended pressure.

Unless your tire is visibly flat, don't judge tire inflation just by looking at it; you have to use a tire pressure gauge to get the correct pounds per square inch reading. There are three types of tire-pressure gauges: digital, internal slide and dial. Prices range from $5 for a basic gauge to more than $30 for one that is digital, has an air-release button — or even talks. All will do the job, but you may want to consider the conditions in which you'll be using your gauge. "We've found that low-cost digital pressure gauges are very accurate and maintain the accuracy longer, but in extremely cold temperatures the gauge may not show up properly," said John Rastetter, Tire Rack's director of tire information services.

 
Tips for checking and filling your tires

Tire manufacturers suggest checking tires when they're cold for the most accurate reading. Outside temperatures can cause tire pressure to vary by as much as 1 psi per 10 degrees; higher temperatures mean higher psi readings. "Tires are black; what does black do? Attract heat," Rastetter said, noting the importance of finding a shady place to check and fill all four tires.

Temperature plays a huge part in tire psi, Rastetter said, adding that the most crucial time of year to check pressure is in fall and winter when days are shorter and average temperatures plummet.

Check your tires in the morning before going anywhere, because as soon as you get behind the wheel for an extended amount of time, psi will rise. Rastetter said that if you've been on the road a long time and notice higher psi in your tires, don't let the air out, as the increase in pressure has built up due to the warm, constantly-in-motion tires

What to do

1. Pull your car onto a level surface in the shade.
2. Remove dust caps from the tires' valve stems.
3. Using your tire gauge, firmly press the tip of the gauge straight on to the tire's valve stem for a brief moment.
4. The tire gauge should provide a psi reading; if the number seems unrealistically low or high — for example, 85 psi or 1 psi – you will need to repeat the previous step, ensuring that the tire gauge's tip is properly making contact with the valve stem.
5. If the tire gauge's recorded reading is higher than the manufacturer-recommended rating, press the gauge tip on the valve stem until you hear air leak out. Check the tire pressure again.
6. If the reading is lower than recommended, fill the tire with air by firmly pressing the air-hose tip onto the valve stem. You will hear air quietly enter the tire. If you hear air leaking or spraying out, you need to double-check that the connection between the air hose and the tire’s valve stem is secure.
7. When you think you've added or let out enough air, check the pressure a few times with the gauge.
8. Replace the valve dust caps. Rastetter emphasized the importance of keeping dust caps on during winter driving because if water gets into the valve stem and freezes inside the tire, it could cause a flat.

While you're at it, check your spare tire's pressure. You don't want to have a flat tire and then find out your replacement is flat, too.

Make these steps part of your routine. It will benefit your vehicle and your wallet.

Read more at https://www.cars.com/articles/2013/06/how-to-check-and-fill-tires/#0vaiRuIDJqwCU7Ho.99

Do I Need to Replace a Damaged Wheel?

If it's cosmetic or superficial damage, such as from scraping a curb, the wheel is probably still round and has no bent sections or chunks of metal missing. On the other hand, if the wheel is bent, cracked or structurally weakened from hitting a massive pothole, running over a steep curb or some other mishap, it may need to be replaced, though it could possibly be repaired.

A dented wheel may not be able to maintain a seal with the tire bead, resulting in consistent slow leaks or blowouts, and will be difficult if not impossible to balance so that it doesn't vibrate at speed. A wheel with structural damage could eventually break apart. When in doubt about the severity of damage, a mechanic experienced in assessing wheel damage should inspect the entire wheel with the tire removed.

Whether to repair or replace a damaged wheel is often a judgment call, but because it involves safety issues as well as cosmetic concerns, the best course is to err on the side of safety.

Repair services that promise to restore badly damaged wheels to like-new condition might be able to remove dents and bends and make a rim look great again. However, there are no federal safety standards that apply to refurbished wheels, so you'll be taking your chances as to whether they'll still have their original strength and integrity.

Repairing more than superficial damage will not be an easy do-it-yourself project. Heat and specialized machines are used to straighten bends, and a complete refurbishment involves removing all paint and protective coatings, repairing corrosion and physical damage, then applying new coatings.

The cost of repairing a wheel will vary by size, type and amount of damage, and it might approach the price of a new or used replacement. Many original-equipment alloy wheels can cost hundreds of dollars (even thousands in the case of luxury and sports cars) to replace, so buying a used one can save money. However, it might be hard to determine if a used wheel had prior damage and is refurbished.

Read more at https://www.cars.com/articles/do-i-need-to-replace-a-damaged-wheel-1420684865486/#yOsuwyet1J8zYU1V.99

How Often Should I Change Engine Coolant?

For some vehicles, you're advised to change the coolant every 30,000 miles. For others, changing the coolant isn't even on the maintenance schedule.

For example, Hyundai says the coolant (what many refer to as "antifreeze") in most of its models should be replaced after the first 60,000 miles, then every 30,000 miles after that. The interval is every 30,000 miles on some Mercedes-Benz models, but on others it's 120,000 miles or 12 years. On still other Mercedes, it's 150,000 miles or 15 years.

Some manufacturers recommend changing the coolant more often on vehicles subjected to "severe service," such as frequent towing. The schedule for many Chevrolets, though, is to change it at 150,000 miles regardless of how the vehicle is driven.

Many service shops, though — including some at dealerships that sell cars with "lifetime" coolant — say you should do it more often than the maintenance schedule recommends, such as every 30,000 or 50,000 miles.

Here's why: Most vehicles use long-life engine coolant (usually a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water) that for several years will provide protection against boiling in hot weather and freezing in cold weather, with little or no maintenance. Modern vehicles also have longer intervals between fluid changes of all types partly because environmental regulators have pressured automakers to reduce the amount of waste fluids that have to be disposed of or recycled.

Coolant can deteriorate over time and should be tested to see if it's still good, as it can be hard to tell just by appearances. Even if testing shows the cooling and antifreeze protection are still adequate, antifreeze can become more acidic over time and lose its rust-inhibiting properties, causing corrosion.

Corrosion can damage the radiator, water pump, thermostat and other parts of the cooling system, so the coolant in a vehicle with more than about 50,000 miles should be tested periodically. That's to look for signs of rust and to make sure it has sufficient cooling and boiling protection, even if the cooling system seems to be working properly. It can be checked with test strips that measure acidity, and with a hydrometer that measures freezing and boiling protection.

If the corrosion inhibitors have deteriorated, the coolant should be changed. The cooling system might also need to be flushed to remove contaminants no matter what the maintenance schedule calls for or how many miles are on the odometer. On the other hand, if testing shows the coolant is still doing its job and not allowing corrosion, changing it more often than what the manufacturer recommends could be a waste of money.

Read more at https://www.cars.com/articles/how-often-should-i-change-engine-coolant-1420680853669/#TeXdDtOglJ6hZV06.99

What's Causing That Smell in My Car?

If your vehicle is giving off an unusual or sickening odor instead of that new-car smell, follow your nose and find the source of the aroma. Bad smells can lead to expensive repairs or health hazards and shouldn't be ignored. Here are some common odors and their possible causes:

Musty: If turning on the air conditioner generates a musty smell, mold and/or mildew have probably formed in the air-conditioning system. Moisture naturally collects on the cold air-conditioning evaporator (a small radiator that carries refrigerant into the car's dashboard) and it may be harboring mold. Running only the fan at high speed (with the air conditioning off) can dry the evaporator.

However, that doesn't guarantee the problem won't reoccur — especially if it's being caused by a clog in the drain tube that allows water to drip out under the car. A musty smell also can be caused by carpets that get wet when water leaks into the interior.

Sweet: Antifreeze has a sweet, syrupy odor, and smelling it inside a car usually means there's a leak somewhere in the cooling system. The source may not be easy to see. For example, the leak could be from a corroded heat exchanger (aka heater core), which is usually behind the dashboard. The leak could be in the form of steam that enters the cabin, producing the smell and potentially fogging the windows. Have this problem addressed, because breathing antifreeze isn't good for you.

Burning: Oil could be oozing onto a hot part of the engine or exhaust system. It also could come from overheated brake pads and/or rotors — due either to aggressive braking, pads that don't retract when you release the brake pedal or the emergency brake being left on while driving. On a vehicle with a manual transmission, the clutch plate could be worn or overheating from riding the clutch pedal. Leaves or other material in the engine compartment — sometimes imported by nesting rodents — also can burn on hot surfaces.

Rotten eggs: If you can smell rotten eggs or sulfur, your catalytic converter may have gone bad. The root cause could be an engine or emissions-system problem that made the converter overheat.

Rubber: The smell of burning rubber could be an accessory drive belt that's slipping or getting chewed up by a broken pulley or hose rubbing against a moving part. An overheated clutch plate also can smell like burning rubber.

Electrical: Smell burnt toast? That could be a short circuit in an electrical component or overheated insulation. Take electrical odors seriously, because short circuits and overheated components are common sources of fire.

Gas: It's normal to smell a little gas when a cold engine is first started because of incomplete combustion. If you smell gas after the engine is warm, though, the gas cap could be loose or the evaporative emissions control system — which is supposed to contain fuel vapors and recycle them through the engine — could be leaking or clogged. Even worse, gas could be leaking from the tank or another part of the fuel system. Always investigate gas smells you discover when your car is parked before starting the car and potentially igniting the fuel.

Rotting fruit: It's probably what it smells like. Look under the seats for a decomposed apple or banana.

Read more at https://www.cars.com/articles/whats-causing-that-smell-in-my-car-1420685136993/#9y9px0Igsxdr7DCr.99

What's Included in a Tuneup?

Actually, there is no such thing as a tuneup in the traditional sense of replacing parts to bring the ignition and fuel systems up to specs for maximum performance and efficiency, and there hasn't been for years.

About the only things left from the traditional tuneup are new spark plugs, which is typically done every 100,000 miles, and replacing the air filter periodically. The federal EPA and Department of Energy say that replacing a clogged air filter will not improve gas mileage but can improve acceleration 6 to 11 percent. The agencies do not say what benefit can be derived from fresh spark plugs, but computers that control today's engines adjust the air-fuel mixture and spark timing to compensate for wear, such as when the electrodes on spark plugs are worn down.

Even so, some car owners still dutifully take their car in periodically to have it "tuned up." Instead, service technicians will inspect and perhaps test the fuel, ignition and emissions systems to look for faulty vacuum hoses, oxygen sensors and other parts that can hurt performance. The federal government, for example, says a bad oxygen sensor can give engine computers false readings and reduce fuel economy as much as 40 percent.

Having your vehicle serviced and inspected periodically is a good way to extend its life and keep it operating efficiently. However, walking into a repair facility and asking for a tuneup is a bad idea because it indicates you're still living in the previous century and have extra money you would like to spend. Some in the auto-repair business will take advantage of those opportunities.

Look in the owner's manual for your vehicle (or separate maintenance schedule) to find what the manufacturer recommends, and see if you can even find the words "tuneup." For example, we looked at the maintenance guide for the Ford Fiesta that also applies to other Ford vehicles. The first mention of anything related to a traditional tune-up was to replace the engine air filter every 30,000 miles. The only other related item was to replace the spark plugs every 100,000 miles.

Read more at https://www.cars.com/articles/2013/05/whats-included-in-a-tune-up/#4kmRUTUvj2rzZqGl.99

If I Seldom Drive, What's the Minimum I Should Drive My Car?

We recommend driving every two to three weeks to make it less likely that you wind up with a dead battery, flat-spotted tires or other issues that can be caused by letting a car sit for weeks.

We've heard many people say they let their cars sit for months with no problems, but you're better off driving it a couple of times each month and for at least 10 miles, with some speeds over 50 mph if possible. You not only want your engine to get fully warmed up but for the entire car to get some exercise as well.

Letting a car idle for 10 minutes will get the engine up to normal operating temperature but accomplish little else. Driving the car for several miles wakes up the transmission, brakes, suspension, power steering, climate system (including the air conditioner) and all the fluids, seals and gaskets for those components that have been on a long snooze.

Batteries slowly lose their charge when they sit idle, and starting the car will drain it even more. That is one reason you want to drive several miles afterward, so the battery has a chance to recharge. If a car sits for a month or more, the battery may lose so much power that it will need a jump-start — or a charge before the engine will start. To be sure your car will always start, consider a battery tender as described in our guide, "How to Store Your Car for Winter." Unlike the rechargeable batteries in electronics, conventional car starter batteries don't like to cycle deeply, so keeping them topped off could improve their longevity.

Here are more reasons not to let your car sit for several weeks or longer:
Tires slowly lose air under all conditions but especially during cold weather. As they do, the weight of the car keeps pressing down on the tires, which causes flat spots to develop on the segments sitting on the ground. Driving the car and adding air if necessary will usually make the tires round again, but letting the vehicle sit for extended periods on underinflated tires can cause permanent flat spots that you will be able to feel and hear when you drive.
Rodents might take up residence under the hood or even in exhaust outlets. If they get hungry, some may munch on the wiring harnesses and other parts made of soy and other organic materials that are used on modern vehicles.
Moisture can collect in the gas tank (especially if it isn't full) and in the oil over time, and that can lead to corrosion.
Read more at https://www.cars.com/articles/if-i-seldom-drive-whats-the-minimum-i-should-drive-my-car-1420684417381/#U6RybqltZwTLAerQ.99

Innovative car keys taking driving to a whole new leveI

It's only suiting that a car as high-tech as the BMW 7-series would come with a key fob to match it.

It comes with four buttons to lock and unlock the car, pop open the trunk, and panic. But it also comes with a full-color 2.2-inch touch screen that lets you swipe to see information like whether all the doors are locked and your current fuel range.

You can also use the key to control the climate in the car and toggle the lights. But by far the coolest part is that you can use it to park the car remotely.

Tesla's key fob was actually designed to look like a mini Tesla Model S

In addition to locking and unlocking the car doors, the Tesla key can be used to tell the car to pull forward and backward, all from a semi-remote distance and without anyone inside of the car.

With the F-Pace's Activity Key, by holding your wrist up to the Jaguar badge on the rear of the car, you can lock or unlock the vehicle. And it's waterproof! 

The Activity Key is available as a $400 option.

Car Maintenance: What to Expect at Each Service Interval

Let's face the facts, car maintenance isn't usually a favorite pursuit for the majority of car owners. But regular maintenance is vital to keeping your car running smoothly and avoiding unneccessary repairs that crop up if you let scheduled services pass you by.

Proactive maintenance will make the life of a car owner much easier, and this maintenance guide will give you a general idea of what is to be expected at each major service interval. Specifics differ from manufacturer to manufacturer - so it's important to check your owner's manual and consult your mechanic, but the following is fairly standard across most makes and models.

Change Engine Oil Frequently
Oil is commonly referred to as the life-blood of an engine and for good reason. Proper lubrication is tantamount to an engine's health, so you need to regularly replace your engine oil and oil filter.

The engine oil and filter should be changed, on average, about every 3,000 to 5,000 miles for a typical gasoline engine. Some modern synthetic oils allow up to 7,500 miles of protection between changes, but only under ideal driving conditions.

Since most of the drives we take are short trips in stop-and-go traffic, it's always a good idea to change your oil more frequently than the maximum recommended interval.

Your First Major Check-up: 15,000-Mile ServiceYour first major service should come at about 15,000 miles, or twelve months, after purchasing your car. Given the young life of your car and its components, it's a relatively basic procedure.

Expect to have the engine oil and oil filter changed, along with the engine air filter and the in-cabin air filter. A new engine air filter will ensure optimal gas mileage and keep engine contaminants at a minimum, while a new in-cabin air filter will keep your car's interior dust and contaminant free.

Wiper blades should also be inspected at this point, especially if winter is approaching, and replaced as needed.

Understanding all of the items in your 15,000-mile service is important, because this process will be repeated at all major services.

30,000-Mile Service
In addition to the items replaced at your 15,000-mile service, a new fuel filter will be needed to keep your engine running smooth.

Engine coolant will also be changed at this time to ensure your car's engine does not overheat, and power steering and transmission fluids should be flushed out and replaced. These fluids break down over time and lose their effectiveness and, for the average commuter, these fluids will have been in use for roughly two years.

This service should be repeated every 30,000 miles to keep your car in good health.

45,000-Mile Service
Your 45,000-mile service will include familiar, commonly changed maintenance items such as an oil and oil filter change, but the additional focus of the service will be on the car's ignition system.

Spark plugs are key engine components that need to be replaced after three years or 45,000 miles. Worn-out spark plugs can cause misfires and dead cylinders, which seriously harm the performance and lifespan of an engine. A new ignition management system, which runs the spark plugs, should also be fitted to ensure the entire ignition system is functioning normally.

Brake fluid should also be changed after 45,000 miles or three years, as it absorbs water over time and thickens, losing its efficacy. Brake pads need to be checked and replaced as needed, especially for drivers who spend a significant amount of time in stop-and-go traffic.

2018 Ford EcoSport Review

The big news in SUVs these days is actually pretty small. After years of wondering when Ford would join the subcompact SUV fray in the U.S. with its EcoSport global subcompact utility vehicle, we now have our answer courtesy the 2016 Los Angeles Auto Show: early 2018. That's when this newly refreshed cute SUV arrives on our shores.

And it really is cute. It's got the Ford family front end, but it's on a scale not normally seen from the automaker. Standing next to the EcoSport, you realize just how tiny it is on the outside, with its low beltline and big windows helping to create some interesting proportions. You can see why it's been one of Ford's best sellers globally, especially in developing countries with tight urban environments. It's not going to be difficult to park this thing anywhere in a big city.

It's fitting that the model on display is painted a kind of Tardis blue — just like Dr. Who's mode of transportation, it certainly feels bigger on the inside than it looks on the outside. The front seats have plenty of room, with ample legroom and headroom, and excellent outward visibility. Width is a little on the narrow side, but this is a subcompact SUV made primarily for foreign markets where lane widths aren't as ample as they are here. The backseat is comfortable as well, but the Titanium trim's moonroof eats into headroom a tad. Legroom is tight in back unless front seat occupants sacrifice a little of theirs to allow the backseaters some comfort.

Material quality in the EcoSport is typically Ford, with soft-touch materials, slick switchgear and bright LEDs to give a surprisingly upscale appearance to the Titanium; we'll see how well the base S trim stacks up when it's launched, however. The 8-inch touchscreen has Ford's excellent Sync 3 system, which continues to impress with its ease of use and clarity of information. It's a nice interior for sure, certainly a step up from a Chevrolet Trax or Honda HR-V and even nicer in some ways than the Buick Encore.

The cargo area is versatile as well, with a decent amount of space behind the rear seats for a few parcels. Drop the rear seats and you can fit some larger items in the cargo area ; enough for most people's daily use ; but stuffing a 60-inch flatscreen TV in there might stretch the EcoSport's utility. The side-opening swing gate isn't really much of a benefit, especially if you're in a congested urban environment, where people will park inches from your rear bumper. A more conventional hatchback tailgate might have been a better idea.

Overall, the new EcoSport should find some willing buyers when it hits showrooms more than a year from now. The turbocharged 1.0-liter engine is a fantastic little motor in the Fiesta and Focus, and if the so-equipped EcoSport is as much fun to drive as those models, it should be a winner for Ford in the U.S.

3 Ways to Clean Your Windows with Vinegar

Finally the days are becoming clear and sparkling, although I’d be hard-pressed to tell if I were to rely upon the blurry view from my winter-grimed windows. How do windows become so speckled and what can one do about it?

One of the earliest DIY housecleaning formulas that the media latched on to way back when was to clean your windows with vinegar. Remember that? It was a good idea, the only problem was, according to Annie B. Bond, that years of using commercial products left a residue on windows that wasn’t adequately handled by the vinegar. The result? Streaky windows and a lackluster reputation for homemade housecleaning formulas.

So if you are looking at the world through dirty windows and want an inexpensive and natural way to clean them, you might need a tweak on the simple vinegar formula. Try one of these methods depending on your situation.



First time with vinegar
If you are going to clean your windows with vinegar for the first time, you need to add an extra ingredient to help combat the residue left over from commercial products. Here is Annie’s formula:
2 cups of water
1/4 cup white distilled vinegar
1/2 teaspoon of liquid dish soap or detergent
Combine in a labeled spray bottle, spray and wipe.

Normal dirt
Once you have removed any waxy residue with the liquid soap formula, you can begin using a diluted white vinegar solution for normal dirt.
1 cup white distilled vinegar
1 cup water
Combine in a labeled spray bottle, spray and wipe.

Very dirty
If you have extra dirty windows, or windows with dried paint or hard-water mineral spots, try warming up full-strength white distilled vinegar and applying it directly to the windows.

What to wipe with?
As for what to wipe with, what’s best? To avoid streaks it’s important to dry the window as quickly as possible once you have cleaned it. Many normal cleaning cloths can leave a small flurry of lint, not ideal. Paper towels are lint-free, but are too wasteful. Some people swear by newspaper–it is lint-free, and the texture of the crumpled paper can work well on grime. But if you don’t like the feeling of newspaper ink on your hands, or if the ink smudges your white window frames or sills, you’ll need something else. Squeegees are good because you only need one towel to wipe and they really do conquer streaks once you have the technique mastered. I find that microfiber cleaning cloths work well on just about everything, including windows. What do you use? We’d like to hear, leave a comment.

 

2018 Mercedes-AMG E63 S Review

Do you want to drive a car that can carry four passengers in addition to the driver, has the ability to absolutely terrify those four people (and probably you as well) and find the Dodge Charger Hellcat just a bit too ... gauche? Mercedes-AMG has you covered with the new 2018 E63 S, on display at the 2016 Los Angeles Auto Show.

The plan is simple: Take an E-Class sedan. Put some bigger, more aggressive tires on special wheels, add some aerodynamic bits front and rear, give it a unique interior with sport seats up front and, oh yeah, power it with a twin-turbocharged 4.0-liter V-8 engine making 603 horsepower. And, just for fun, let's give it a Drift mode as well, adjusting the all-wheel-drive system to deliver all the torque to the rear wheels to make it easier to get sideways.

Car Care Checklist

What you can do yourself to keep your car on the road

If everything on TV were true, then keeping a vehicle running great, looking good, and lasting a long time would be the easiest thing ever. Advertising will tell us over and over that all we really need to do to keep that car or truck running forever and looking brand new for years is to pour some bottles of miracle liquid into the crankcase, sprinkle magic dust on the paint, or spray some sort of ionized wonder water on the interior. Unfortunately this is not the case.

Following the old adage that "if it sounds too good to be true it probably is" comes the news that regular, proper care and maintenance are what really keep vehicles going into the high six-figure mileage ranges. Miracle cures, magic fairy dust, mystery polymers and the like are all fine and good for infomercials, but most likely won't do much good for your vehicle.

Regularly scheduled maintenance and lubrication using the manufacturers recommended type and formulation of oil, grease and liquids is what will do the trick. Replacing normal wear-and-tear parts such as timing belts before they break is also a good path to follow on the road to long vehicle life. Taking good care of your vehicle can make the difference between being the proud owner of a good looking, long lasting, reliable machine, and saying goodbye to a rusty, faded-paint jalopy that fell apart or broke down long before it was designed to.

Tips for driving in the snow:

• Accelerate and decelerate slowly. Applying the gas slowly to accelerate is the best method for regaining traction and avoiding skids. Don’t try to get moving in a hurry. And take time to slow down for a stoplight. Remember: It takes longer to slow down on icy roads.
• Drive slowly. Everything takes longer on snow-covered roads. Accelerating, stopping, turning – nothing happens as quickly as on dry pavement. Give yourself time to maneuver by driving slowly.
• The normal dry pavement following distance of three to four seconds should be increased to eight to ten seconds. This increased margin of safety will provide the longer distance needed if you have to stop.
• Know your brakes. If you have anti-lock brakes (ABS) and need to slow down quickly, press hard on the pedal-it’s normal for the pedal to vibrate a bit when the ABS is activated.
• Don’t stop if you can avoid it. There’s a big difference in the amount of inertia it takes to start moving from a full stop versus how much it takes to get moving while still rolling. If you can slow down enough to keep rolling until a traffic light changes, do it.
• Don’t power up hills. Applying extra gas on snow-covered roads just starts your wheels spinning. Try to get a little inertia going before you reach the hill and let that inertia carry you to the top. As you reach the crest of the hill, reduce your speed and proceed down hill as slowly as possible.
• Don’t stop going up a hill. There’s nothing worse than trying to get moving up a hill on an icy road. Get some inertia going on a flat roadway before you take on the hill.
• Stay home. If you really don’t have to go out, don’t. Even if you can drive well in the snow, not everyone else can. Don’t tempt fate: If you don’t have somewhere you have to be, watch the snow from indoors.

Ford, Toyota and others team up to rival Apple and Google telematics dominance

A battle of formats is nothing new in the electronics or the automotive industry, and the latest is a bit of both as Apple and Google have come to dominate the platforms for in-car apps.

Now Ford, Toyota, Peugeot-Citroen, Suzuki, Subaru parent company Fuji Heavy Industries and a group of suppliers want to change that by offering an open-source software platform to give users more choice in how they connect and use smartphone apps in their vehicles.

The SmartDeviceLink Consortium plans to use Ford's AppLink software, which is currently used in more than 5 million vehicles, as the basis for the new open-source platform. The new platform will allow smartphone app developers to better integrate their app functions into in-vehicle tech including infotainment screens, steering wheel controls and voice-activated features.

2018 Subaru WRX and WRX STI coming with big performance improvements

Subaru tends not to mess with the WRX and WRX STI often, but for 2018 the all-wheel-drive rocket gets some performance upgrades enthusiasts can get behind.

The base WRX gets revised suspension tuning in an effort to improve both comfort and performance capability –- better handling is always welcome. For those buyers who prefer a manual transmission, Subaru says it has “significantly enhanced” the currently notchy shifter feel of its six-speed transmission with a new synchro design producing less friction. We think that’s even more reason to forget the CVT even exists in a performance car like the WRX. If you weren’t a fan of the electric steering before, Subaru has tinkered with it a bit for 2018, so you might want to give it another try. An optional performance package is offered for the WRX Premium. With it you’ll get Recaro eight-way power seats, red-painted brake calipers with upgraded Jurid brake pads and a moonroof delete in the name of weight reduction.

Moving onto the more radical STI, Subaru went another step beyond the revised suspension tuning in the WRX\ and updated the AWD system, as well. Previously, the limited slip differential used a combination of mechanical and electronic controls, but it will be 100 percent electronic for 2018. Subaru justifies this by saying the electronic control offers both quicker and smoother responses. The new STI also features an upgraded Brembo braking system that looks like it’s track-ready from the factory. Monoblock six-piston calipers up front, and two-piston rears will clamp down onto larger, drilled rotors all the way around. You’ll be able to tell them apart from last year’s calipers because Subaru went and painted these upgraded units yellow.

When I review a new car, most of the time I get it dropped off at an airport near a venue at which I will be helping to organize a 24 Hours of LeMons race, and then I spend a few days driving it ...

 

Wheels keep increasing in size as the years roll on, and the STI is no exception, offering 19-inch rims for the first time. You’ll notice the lack of engine talk here, because Subaru hasn’t done a single thing to either the WRX’s 2.0-liter boxer four-cylinder or the STI’s 2.5-liter power plant. 

Appearance-wise, the front end of the car gets revised with a larger grille opening and steering-responsive headlights, so the curve ahead will be lit up for late-night hooning adventures. Technology is also upgraded for the new WRX and STI in the form of larger screens on the interior and a vehicle hold system to keep the car still on all grades.

We’ll have to be patient for the WRX and STI to get the kind of overhaul the Impreza just received, but these newest changes are certainly a welcome placeholder. Look out for the more exciting turbo boxer siblings in spring of this year.